TAY TRANG TO LUANG PRABANG
1. 6
June,
Day 41,
from Tay
Trang to
Udomxai,
was the
most
exciting
day of
our trip
so far.
Originally
hoping
to make
the 400+
km
journey
to Luang
Prabang
before
dark, we
decided
to break
journey
and stay
the
night at
Udomxai,
with
about
200 km
still to
go to
Luang
Prabang.
The road
on the
Laos
side,
after
clearing
immigration
and
customs
was the
most
challenging,
the
toughest
we had
in our
whole
journey.
There
were
anxious
moments,
but we
enjoyed
it. It
was fun.
2. We left Dien Bian Phu (DBP) at about 9 am on 6 June, Day 41, for the border crossing to Laos. The 36 km to the border was generally all right, metalled, but narrowed to
a lane
and a
half,
and very
hilly
with
many
twists
and
turns as
we went
up the
mountain.
There
were few
vehicles
on the
road, in
either
direction.
This
border
crossing
was
obviously
not well
used. Ne
ar
the
border
were
vast
stretches
of padi
field,
with
farmers
busy
tilling
the soil
with
water
buffaloes.
3. As petrol was cheaper in Vietnam (US$0.70 for Octane 95 in Vietnam vs US$0.94 Octane 92 in Laos), we topped up our tank at DBP before heading for the border. In Vietnam, Octane 92 petrol is widely available in stations run by various companies. Octane 95 petrol is only available in some Petrolimex stations. In this instance, on the way to the border, the Petrolimex stations did not carry Octane 95 petrol.
4. At about 1000m above sea level, the Tay Trang border crossing
must
be one
of the
highest
in the
world.
The
Vietnamese
immigration/customs
building
looked
very
new;
very
quiet
when we
got
there.
Other
than
officials,
there
were
only 3
of us.
Officials
were
unsmiling
but
businesslike.
Thuan
met with
the
customs
officials
to clear
my car
for exit
out of
Vietnam,
while
Sunny
and I
cleared
immigration.
We were
done in
about 15
mins
(about
10.15).
The day
before,
Thuan
had to
report
to the
police
station
at DBP
to get
the sign
off for
our
exit.
That
morning,
Thuan
also
received
a call
from the
customs
at Moc
Bai
(where
we
crossed
into
Vietnam
from
Cambodia)
asking
if we
were
leaving
Vietnam.
So they
do
check!!.
Here we
bid
farewell
to Thuan.
He had
been a
great
companion
in
Vietnam
for the
last 22
days.
5. After we crossed this arch, we left Vietnam soil.
The
road
became
unsealed
laterite
track.
According
to
Lonely
Planet,
the Laos
immigration/customs
was
some
3 km
away.
When we
reached
the 3 km
mark we
did see
a small
building
but
decided
that it
was
unlikely
to be
the Laos
immigration/customs
facility
especially
when we
saw
someone
appearing
in his
underwear
as
if
he had
just
woken
up. We
decided
to keep
travelling
but
became
concerned
when
there
was no
building
in
sight.
We were
relieved
when we
saw a
white
building
perched
on the
hill top
at about
the 5 km
mark.
The Laos
govt
must had
just
opened
this
brand
new
immigration/customs
building.
6. When we arrived, there was a group of 7-8 people sorting out their paper work to leave Laos to enter Vietnam. On the entry side, we were the only 2 people. One of the backpackers approached us to see if we want to change some of our US$ to kips. Though the immigration and customs staff spoke little English, they were friendly and professional with their work. Recording the details into a hard cover book and after collecting a fee of 45 000 kips (10 000 each for 2 individuals and 25 000 for the car), our passports were stamped and done. For the car, I showed the support letter from the Laos Embassy in Singapore and pushed the Carnet to them. I decided that I ought to try to use the Carnet this time, as it was not used in all the earlier entries. After discussing among themselves, with no fuss, they duly stamped the Carnet, kept the counterfoil, collected 25 000 kips as processing fee, and passed back the Carnet and documents back to me. All in 30 mins on the Laos side and we were done by 11 am.
7. The road to Luang Prabang could be divided into 3 parts, Tay Trang to Muang Khua (abt 100 km), Muang Khua to Udomxai (abt 100 km), and Udomxai to Luang Prabang (abt 200 km), the initial sections very raw and most challenging. From Tay Trang to Udomxai, it was
unsealed
laterite
track, a
lane and
a half,
for
most
of the
way to
Udomxai,
going
through
mud
pools
from
time to
time.
Here is
an
example
in video
of one
of the
mud
pools we
went
through.
Every few hundred meters the track narrowed as part of the track had collapsed in earlier landslides and despite the rain repair work was on-going. We understand that Oct last year saw the heaviest downpour in Laos
for the
past 20
years.
8. The stretch of road from Tay Trang to Muang Khua was most challenging as we had to ford 5 streams before crossing the Nam Ou River by ferry. I did 3 crossings and Sunny did 2.
We
were
obviously
the most
anxious
with
first
one even
though
it
was a
small
one. We
felt
easier
doing
the
subsquent
fordings.
To be
safe, we
would
try to
wait for
other
vehicles
to cross
before
us so
that we
could
gauge
the
depth
and how
the
crossing
was
executed.
Here is
a video
of Sunny
executing
one of
the
crossings.
The
other
picture
showed
him
wading
across
the
stream
after
the
Pajero
had
crossed.
Can see
Sunny
working
real
hard!
Heres a picture of a bunch of kids at one of the crossing points.
Obviously
they
were
having
ball of
the time
getting
wet.
9. Compared to the initial stretch the road from Udomxai to Luang Prabang was easier, as it was generally sealed but due to overdue maintenance suffered from many potholes.
10. Overall, for a long time to come a 4x4 vehicle would be needed for travel between Tay Trang and Udomxai. While work to repair sections affected by landslides should be completed soon, constructing the bridges and sealing the road surface for the 200 km or so of road would take some years.
11. We reached Muang Khua at close to 2 pm, nearly 3 hrs from the
time we
set off
from Tay
Trang,
covering
100 kms
in 3
hrs.
After
crossing
Nam Ou
River by
ferry,
we had a
late
lunch at
a
restaurant
overlooking
the
muddy
river.
The 3
cyclists
we met
at one
of the
fording
points
managed
to catch
up with
us at
the
restaurant.
They
told us
that
they had
cycled
from
Bangkok
through
to
Cambodia,
from
South to
North
Vietnam,
and like
us, had
travelled
from
Hanoi to
DBP and
to Tay
Trang
border
crossing.
They
carried
their
stuff on
the
bikes
and
were
soaking
wet.
They
would
continue
their
journey
to Luang
Prabang
and end
their
journey
back in
Bangkok.
After
comparing
notes,
they
remarked
that the
hilly
stretch
to DBP
was
toughest.
I cant
agree
more as
driving
the car
was
already
tough
enough.
The 3
were all
Irish.
One of
them
took a 6
mths
leave
from
work to
undertake
this
journey.
I had
great
admiration
for
these
tough
guys.
12. The drive was not all hard work. It was not just dirt and mud. We enjoyed the beautiful mountain scenery, the many interesting sights along the way and took time to take the pictures. The area was just as
hilly,
rising
to 1400
m in
some
stretches
and
consistently
above
600 m in
height
but it
was less
intensely
cultivated
and more
thinly
populated
as
compared
to NW
Vietnam.
13. From Tay Trang to Udomxai, the animals seemed to think that the road belonged to them. They took a nap, had a family gathering, or simply took a stroll along the road. We had to be very careful not to injure any animal.
Also,
we had
to be
careful
about
people
walking
along
the side
of the
roads.
In the
picture
to the
right,
you see
a girl
carrying
a bag
with her
forehead.
This was
a fairly
common
sight.
Less
common
is this
picture
below;
the chap
was
having
his hair
cut by
the
woman.
In all
the
pictures,
you see
the
colourful
dresses
worn by
the
minority
groups,
similar
to those
in NW
Vietnam.
14. By the time we reached Udomxai, it was after 5 pm. We decided to check into DanSavanh Oudomxay Hotel for the night for about US$20 before continuing our journey to Luang Prabang the following day. Met a Malaysian (called William) who worked at the hotel. He said Udomxai was the gateway to Yunnan and they had many Chinese visitors passing the area to Vientiane and Luang Prabang. For this reason, many hotels and restaurants carried Chinese words. With his recommendation, we had a dinner at a restaurant near the airport, the most trendy eating places at Udomxai at the moment. Sunny and I were the oldest. We were among many youngsters, boys and girls, who were there for beers and small bites. Interestingly, didnt see any smoker. Hotel did not have wifi. It didnt matter as we both slept like logs after we got back to our room. It was an exhausting day.
15. Next day, 7 June, we woke up the usual time, had breakfast at 8 am, walked around the market opposite the hotel, changed some
money
to kips,
checked
our
emails
with the
reception
desk's
cables,
and we
were off
to
Luang
Prabang
at about
9.30 am.
Along
the way,
we
stopped
at a
roadside
stall to
do some
shopping.
Here
Sunny
was
making
the
payment,
while
the
mother's
daughter
was
crying
behind.
16. We got to Luang Prabang at about 2.30 pm, and after some scouting, checked into Ramayana Boutique Hotel and Spa for US$50 a night.
The Laos
govt
ensures
that
theres
no
monkey
business
in the
hotel.
Included
in the
hotel
regulations
are:
(1) Do not....bring both women and men which is not your own husband or wife into the room for making love.
(2) Do not allow domestic or international tourists bring prostitute and others into your accommodation to make sex movies in our room, it is restriction.
After careful consideration, Sunny and I decided that we could live with these regulations. We really had no option but to comply because the regulation goes on to state "if you do not follow this accommodation regulation, you will be fight based on Lao PDR law". Not sure if they mean "bitten up".
At any rate, we planned to stay in Luang Prabang for 2-3 nights, before heading for North Thailand.
17. After 2 days of mud and water, the Pajero had become unrecognisable. We couldnt even see the number plate.
-> NEXT
2. We left Dien Bian Phu (DBP) at about 9 am on 6 June, Day 41, for the border crossing to Laos. The 36 km to the border was generally all right, metalled, but narrowed to
a lane
and a
half,
and very
hilly
with
many
twists
and
turns as
we went
up the
mountain.
There
were few
vehicles
on the
road, in
either
direction.
This
border
crossing
was
obviously
not well
used. Ne
ar
the
border
were
vast
stretches
of padi
field,
with
farmers
busy
tilling
the soil
with
water
buffaloes.3. As petrol was cheaper in Vietnam (US$0.70 for Octane 95 in Vietnam vs US$0.94 Octane 92 in Laos), we topped up our tank at DBP before heading for the border. In Vietnam, Octane 92 petrol is widely available in stations run by various companies. Octane 95 petrol is only available in some Petrolimex stations. In this instance, on the way to the border, the Petrolimex stations did not carry Octane 95 petrol.
4. At about 1000m above sea level, the Tay Trang border crossing
must
be one
of the
highest
in the
world.
The
Vietnamese
immigration/customs
building
looked
very
new;
very
quiet
when we
got
there.
Other
than
officials,
there
were
only 3
of us.
Officials
were
unsmiling
but
businesslike.
Thuan
met with
the
customs
officials
to clear
my car
for exit
out of
Vietnam,
while
Sunny
and I
cleared
immigration.
We were
done in
about 15
mins
(about
10.15).
The day
before,
Thuan
had to
report
to the
police
station
at DBP
to get
the sign
off for
our
exit.
That
morning,
Thuan
also
received
a call
from the
customs
at Moc
Bai
(where
we
crossed
into
Vietnam
from
Cambodia)
asking
if we
were
leaving
Vietnam.
So they
do
check!!.
Here we
bid
farewell
to Thuan.
He had
been a
great
companion
in
Vietnam
for the
last 22
days.5. After we crossed this arch, we left Vietnam soil.
The
road
became
unsealed
laterite
track.
According
to
Lonely
Planet,
the Laos
immigration/customs
was
some
3 km
away.
When we
reached
the 3 km
mark we
did see
a small
building
but
decided
that it
was
unlikely
to be
the Laos
immigration/customs
facility
especially
when we
saw
someone
appearing
in his
underwear
as
if
he had
just
woken
up. We
decided
to keep
travelling
but
became
concerned
when
there
was no
building
in
sight.
We were
relieved
when we
saw a
white
building
perched
on the
hill top
at about
the 5 km
mark.
The Laos
govt
must had
just
opened
this
brand
new
immigration/customs
building.6. When we arrived, there was a group of 7-8 people sorting out their paper work to leave Laos to enter Vietnam. On the entry side, we were the only 2 people. One of the backpackers approached us to see if we want to change some of our US$ to kips. Though the immigration and customs staff spoke little English, they were friendly and professional with their work. Recording the details into a hard cover book and after collecting a fee of 45 000 kips (10 000 each for 2 individuals and 25 000 for the car), our passports were stamped and done. For the car, I showed the support letter from the Laos Embassy in Singapore and pushed the Carnet to them. I decided that I ought to try to use the Carnet this time, as it was not used in all the earlier entries. After discussing among themselves, with no fuss, they duly stamped the Carnet, kept the counterfoil, collected 25 000 kips as processing fee, and passed back the Carnet and documents back to me. All in 30 mins on the Laos side and we were done by 11 am.
7. The road to Luang Prabang could be divided into 3 parts, Tay Trang to Muang Khua (abt 100 km), Muang Khua to Udomxai (abt 100 km), and Udomxai to Luang Prabang (abt 200 km), the initial sections very raw and most challenging. From Tay Trang to Udomxai, it was
unsealed
laterite
track, a
lane and
a half,
for
most
of the
way to
Udomxai,
going
through
mud
pools
from
time to
time.
Here is
an
example
in video
of one
of the
mud
pools we
went
through.
Every few hundred meters the track narrowed as part of the track had collapsed in earlier landslides and despite the rain repair work was on-going. We understand that Oct last year saw the heaviest downpour in Laos
for the
past 20
years.8. The stretch of road from Tay Trang to Muang Khua was most challenging as we had to ford 5 streams before crossing the Nam Ou River by ferry. I did 3 crossings and Sunny did 2.
We
were
obviously
the most
anxious
with
first
one even
though
it
was a
small
one. We
felt
easier
doing
the
subsquent
fordings.
To be
safe, we
would
try to
wait for
other
vehicles
to cross
before
us so
that we
could
gauge
the
depth
and how
the
crossing
was
executed.
Here is
a video
of Sunny
executing
one of
the
crossings.
The
other
picture
showed
him
wading
across
the
stream
after
the
Pajero
had
crossed.
Can see
Sunny
working
real
hard!Heres a picture of a bunch of kids at one of the crossing points.
Obviously
they
were
having
ball of
the time
getting
wet.9. Compared to the initial stretch the road from Udomxai to Luang Prabang was easier, as it was generally sealed but due to overdue maintenance suffered from many potholes.
10. Overall, for a long time to come a 4x4 vehicle would be needed for travel between Tay Trang and Udomxai. While work to repair sections affected by landslides should be completed soon, constructing the bridges and sealing the road surface for the 200 km or so of road would take some years.
11. We reached Muang Khua at close to 2 pm, nearly 3 hrs from the
time we
set off
from Tay
Trang,
covering
100 kms
in 3
hrs.
After
crossing
Nam Ou
River by
ferry,
we had a
late
lunch at
a
restaurant
overlooking
the
muddy
river.
The 3
cyclists
we met
at one
of the
fording
points
managed
to catch
up with
us at
the
restaurant.
They
told us
that
they had
cycled
from
Bangkok
through
to
Cambodia,
from
South to
North
Vietnam,
and like
us, had
travelled
from
Hanoi to
DBP and
to Tay
Trang
border
crossing.
They
carried
their
stuff on
the
bikes
and
were
soaking
wet.
They
would
continue
their
journey
to Luang
Prabang
and end
their
journey
back in
Bangkok.
After
comparing
notes,
they
remarked
that the
hilly
stretch
to DBP
was
toughest.
I cant
agree
more as
driving
the car
was
already
tough
enough.
The 3
were all
Irish.
One of
them
took a 6
mths
leave
from
work to
undertake
this
journey.
I had
great
admiration
for
these
tough
guys.12. The drive was not all hard work. It was not just dirt and mud. We enjoyed the beautiful mountain scenery, the many interesting sights along the way and took time to take the pictures. The area was just as
hilly,
rising
to 1400
m in
some
stretches
and
consistently
above
600 m in
height
but it
was less
intensely
cultivated
and more
thinly
populated
as
compared
to NW
Vietnam.13. From Tay Trang to Udomxai, the animals seemed to think that the road belonged to them. They took a nap, had a family gathering, or simply took a stroll along the road. We had to be very careful not to injure any animal.
Also,
we had
to be
careful
about
people
walking
along
the side
of the
roads.
In the
picture
to the
right,
you see
a girl
carrying
a bag
with her
forehead.
This was
a fairly
common
sight.
Less
common
is this
picture
below;
the chap
was
having
his hair
cut by
the
woman.
In all
the
pictures,
you see
the
colourful
dresses
worn by
the
minority
groups,
similar
to those
in NW
Vietnam.14. By the time we reached Udomxai, it was after 5 pm. We decided to check into DanSavanh Oudomxay Hotel for the night for about US$20 before continuing our journey to Luang Prabang the following day. Met a Malaysian (called William) who worked at the hotel. He said Udomxai was the gateway to Yunnan and they had many Chinese visitors passing the area to Vientiane and Luang Prabang. For this reason, many hotels and restaurants carried Chinese words. With his recommendation, we had a dinner at a restaurant near the airport, the most trendy eating places at Udomxai at the moment. Sunny and I were the oldest. We were among many youngsters, boys and girls, who were there for beers and small bites. Interestingly, didnt see any smoker. Hotel did not have wifi. It didnt matter as we both slept like logs after we got back to our room. It was an exhausting day.
15. Next day, 7 June, we woke up the usual time, had breakfast at 8 am, walked around the market opposite the hotel, changed some
money
to kips,
checked
our
emails
with the
reception
desk's
cables,
and we
were off
to
Luang
Prabang
at about
9.30 am.
Along
the way,
we
stopped
at a
roadside
stall to
do some
shopping.
Here
Sunny
was
making
the
payment,
while
the
mother's
daughter
was
crying
behind.16. We got to Luang Prabang at about 2.30 pm, and after some scouting, checked into Ramayana Boutique Hotel and Spa for US$50 a night.
The Laos
govt
ensures
that
theres
no
monkey
business
in the
hotel.
Included
in the
hotel
regulations
are:(1) Do not....bring both women and men which is not your own husband or wife into the room for making love.
(2) Do not allow domestic or international tourists bring prostitute and others into your accommodation to make sex movies in our room, it is restriction.
After careful consideration, Sunny and I decided that we could live with these regulations. We really had no option but to comply because the regulation goes on to state "if you do not follow this accommodation regulation, you will be fight based on Lao PDR law". Not sure if they mean "bitten up".
At any rate, we planned to stay in Luang Prabang for 2-3 nights, before heading for North Thailand.
17. After 2 days of mud and water, the Pajero had become unrecognisable. We couldnt even see the number plate.
-> NEXT
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